Photo essay: From royal patronage to modern artisans, Udaipur, India's rich leather legacy

The shop/workshop of Hemant, the current owner of Krishna Handicrafts in Chandpole, Udaipur.

The shop/workshop of Hemant, the current owner of Krishna Handicrafts in Chandpole, Udaipur. Image by the author.

Udaipur, the “City of Lakes,” in the northwestern Indian state of Rajasthan, is renowned for its intricate blend of natural beauty and rich history. One of its most cherished traditions is leathercraft, which has deep roots in the region, dating back to the Rajput era (12th to 16th centuries).

Maharana Pratap (1572–1597), king of the Kingdom of Mewar in northwestern India, in what is now the state of Rajasthan, is believed to have been one of the earliest rulers to support local artisans, particularly leatherworkers, who crafted saddles, shields, and other essential goods for his soldiers. This patronage continued over the centuries, with subsequent rulers like Maharana Sajjan Singh and Maharana Fateh Singh supporting artisans who created luxury goods such as leather-bound manuscripts, jewellery boxes, and decorative items. These items became symbols of Udaipur’s cultural identity. As UNESCO's International Day of the Intangible Cultural Heritage is celebrated on October 17th across the world, it’s the perfect time to reflect on the enduring legacy of Udaipur’s leatherwork.

Leather books on display at Krishna Handicrafts.

Leather books on display at Krishna Handicrafts. Image by the author.

As you wander through the lanes surrounding Jagdish Temple, a large Hindu temple in the heart of Udaipur, you’ll encounter numerous shops showcasing the range of leather craftsmanship. In this vibrant cultural landscape, generations of families in Udaipur have preserved this craft, passing down techniques from father to son. Hemant, the current owner of Krishna Handicrafts in the Chandpole locality of Udaipur, is among the many local artisans who continue this cherished legacy today.

Hemant, smiling as he poses inside his shop.

Hemant, smiling as he poses inside his shop. Image by the author.

Hemant shares, “We’ve always believed that our craft is a piece of Udaipur’s history. My father taught me that working with leather is not just a business but an art form, with the spirit of Rajasthan in every stitch.” Now operating from a bustling 25-year-old shop, Hemant’s work showcases leather-bound journals, intricately designed bags, and wallets, each one a nod to the past and a bridge to the future.

Inside look of Hemant’s shop.

Inside Hemant’s shop. Image by the author.

Ramroop, an artisan stitching a leather-bound book.

Ramroop, an artisan, stitches a leather-bound book by hand. Image by the author.

Artisans in Udaipur, like Hemant, still utilize age-old techniques. The use of tools such as the stitching awl and leather-cleaning tool reflects a dedication to preserving the traditional methods. Hemant’s products, for instance, use natural dyes, which he says gives his creations “a character that industrial leather goods simply can’t match.” These methods, often involving vegetable-tanned leather, align with the values of sustainability and craftsmanship that the artisans have embraced over centuries.

Hemant’s work features locally sourced vegetable-tanned leather, chosen for its durability and eco-friendly properties. This process uses tannins from natural sources like tree bark, a practice deeply rooted in traditional leather tanning. Not only is it environmentally sustainable, but it also results in products that age beautifully over time.

Hemant marking dots with a hammer on sheets for a new book.

Hemant marking dots with a hammer on sheets for a new book. Image by the author.

A freshly made leather book crafted by Hemant.

A freshly made leather book crafted by Hemant. Image by the author.

Udaipur’s leather products have also attracted international attention, particularly handmade journals and decorative leather items, which have become sought-after souvenirs. These products not only reflect local artistry but also serve as cultural ambassadors, sharing Udaipur’s heritage with the world. According to Hemant, “We have visitors from across the globe who are fascinated by our products. They often tell me they feel a connection to the history that’s been preserved in these items.”​

Rows of leather books at Krishna Handicrafts.

Rows of leather books at Krishna Handicrafts. Image by the author.

While leathercraft holds an important place in Udaipur’s legacy, the ethical concerns surrounding the use of animal products have prompted local artisans to adapt. Many, including Hemant, now prioritize sustainably sourced and ethically produced leather, along with handmade paper made from recycled cotton — an eco-friendly alternative to conventional paper.

Handmade papers ready to be bound into leather books.

Handmade papers ready to be bound into leather books. Image by the author.

In modern Udaipur, leathercraft is more than a tradition; it’s a form of living history. Artisans like Hemant embody the spirit of this tradition, preserving centuries-old techniques while also innovating to meet contemporary demands. As Hemant reflects, “Each piece we make is a tribute to our history and a bridge to the future. We’re not just creating products; we’re crafting stories.”

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